Wander & Wonder

Nestled in the heart of the Făgăraș Mountains, the trek from Bâlea Lac to Lacul Capra really showcases the beauty of Romania’s Carpathian Mountains.

Starting Point: Bâlea Lac

Bâlea Lac is a glacial lake situated at an altitude of 2,034 meters. It serves as the starting point for this incredible trek. To reach the Bâlea lake, you need to drive through the breath-taking Transfăgărășan Road (check out my other blog post to see the beautiful winding paths and stunning views along this famous road). Since we knew we were doing a long hike, we actually stayed overnight in a mountain cabin-style hotel called Hotel Paraul Capra so that we could start the hike in the early morning. Once you get to Bâlea Lac, there is a lot of free parking alongside the road (do not be fooled by the paid parking lot).

The Initial Ascent

There are two trails you can take to reach Lacul Capra as you set off from Bâlea Lac. The easier one starts near Cabana Bâlea Lac (highlighted in orange on the map) and consists of a ~40-min uphill, after you reach the top of the mountain with a view of the Lacul Capra. Since we wanted a longer hike we opted for the second trail, which begins near Refugiul Salvamont Bâlea Lac (highlighted in purple on the map).

Not going to sugar-coat it: the initial part of the hike was ROUGH. It involves a steep ascent, navigating rocky terrain. But once you reach the top of this initial portion, you are really immersed in the mountains with some of the most spectacular views I have ever seen. You will also come across alpine meadows (where Tony kept repeating how it would be a perfect spot to build a house, although he seemed to forget how hard it would be to get food up there). The path is well-marked, guiding you through an ever-changing landscape that shifts from lush greenery to stark, rocky cliffs.

Ascending to the Ridge

The next part of the hike consists of more uphill as you climb to the ridge. Here you follow the sign pointing towards Saua Caprei.

The Ridge Walk

Once you reach the top of the mountain ridge, the trek becomes less strenuous. Here we spotted a lake below and decided to go explore after finding some rocks to help us safely descend). We had perfect timing as right when we reached the lake, a shepherd came with his flock of sheep. We rested there for about 40 minutes as we are out lunch. Then we returned to the ridge by climbing along the grassy slopes (which was surprisingly not too difficult as the sheep had graciously created hollow footpaths in the hillside). This part of the trail is definitely not for those who have intense fear of heights, as it follows the natural contours of the mountain, with steep drops on either side. Nonetheless, the trail is very clearly demarcated and offers solid footing. Since it was a clear day, the visibility was really astounding; we could see miles in every direction.

Arrival at the Peak(s)

As you continue along the ridge, you will eventually reach your first peak: Varful Paltinu at 2401 meters. From there you will be able to spot the next highest peak (which is clearly marked by a high-flying Romanian flag): Varful Iezerul Caprei at 2417m. It will definitely seem daunting from where you are standing, but if you have made it this far, you 100% will be able to make it there! It only takes about 25 minutes to get to the peak, but be warned it is quite the workout. Once we reached the top, we felt so proud and overwhelmed with joy. No matter in which direction you looked, the view was unbelievably pretty.

Descent to Lacul Capra

The descent towards Lacul Capra is gradual, allowing you to savor the scenery without the strain of a steep decline. As you approach the lake, the terrain becomes gentler, leading you through fields of wildflowers and patches of dwarf pine. The sight of Lacul Capra nestled in a glacial cirque, surrounded by towering cliffs, is a sight to behold. Lacul Capra, at an altitude of 2,230 meters, is a pristine alpine lake that offers a tranquil end to your trek. The crystal-clear waters mirror the surrounding peaks, creating a serene and reflective atmosphere. This spot is perfect for a rest, where you can take in the beauty of the lake and the mountains before heading back to Bâlea Lac via the only descending trail (this is the same path as the orange trail shown on the map).

The combination of challenging ascents, breathtaking ridge walks, and serene descents makes this hike a perfect blend of adventure and tranquility. Whether you are an experienced hiker or a nature enthusiast, this trek offers an unparalleled opportunity to connect with the real beauty of the mountains.